Local Area Information
What we love most about this area is its stripped back, wild and chilled urban feel. If you want to paddle, swim and bathe in lagoon-like tropical waters and have a sophisticated blingy 5* St Tropez experience, this is NOT the place for you.
If you love rugged landscapes, castles, palaces, huge waves and great surf, spending much of the week barefoot or in flip flops, doing yoga, eating amazing seafood and drinking good wine at extraordinarily cheap prices, this is definitely a great holiday destination for you. It's got enough tourist infrastructure for you to make the most of your time here but still feels very Portuguese. It's very family-friendly.... and it's starting to get rather fashionable in a boho kind of way...
In the summer, it is not as hot as the Algarve, but nor is it so British and crowded! There is often a breeze which keeps the mosquitoes away and leaves the high summer temperatures more comfortable than usual, but means you should often have a hoodie with you. The ocean is cold all year round - the locals are all in there in their bikinis, as are our kids. I stick to swimming and sunbathing in our heated pool where the walls and terrace provide shelter, peace and quiet.
This area is blessed with a multitude of stunningly beautiful sandy beaches, all well-maintained and with good parking. Busiest times are sunny Sundays in August when all the locals de-camp to the beach with wind-breaks and umbrellas. Beware it can get windy (there are beach-ready shelters and kites in the garage) and the sea can be rough (that’s why it's a World Surfing Reserve and so good for surfing all year round!). During high season the main beaches have lifeguards and a designated swimming area (patrolled by the life guards who blow their whistles at any surfers straying into it). At low season you’re on your own!
This video gives you a great overview of the local area.
BALEIA/ CARVOEIRA
The village has a bar, a few small shops, a mini supermarket, bakery and restaurants but we recommend you head to Mafra or Ericeira for most shopping and eating out. Nearest supermarkets are 10 mins away - Lidl, Aldi, Continente, Intermarche and Pingo Doce to suit all preferences. Best restaurants are in Ericeira and we'll provide you with lots of recommendations when you book with us. If you want to enjoy a few drinks, a taxi / Uber to Ericeira is less than 10 euros and takes about 10 mins. There is also a regular bus service and a private "beach bus" service operates in the summer from one end of Ericeira to the other.
ERICEIRA
Perched on high cliffs some thirty metres above a string of beaches less than 10 minutes up the coast from the villa, Ericeira's town centre is a charming area of cobbled streets, narrow lanes, whitewashed houses with fabulous ocean views and the smell of grilled sardines.
There is a host of amazing restaurants and great bars in Ericeira, and also beach parties in the summer.
The link below takes you to some lovely photos of Ericeira.
http://www.viagensasolta.com/search/label/fim-de-semana
MAFRA
Mafra is the municipal capital and 10 minutes inland from the villa. It is dominated by the enormous baroque palace you can see from our house. This is well worth a visit - it includes a monastery, basilica and library with its own bat colony. You will find horse riding, and an indoor padel centre here. It is also famous for its bread. Ten minutes from the town is the Tapada Nacional de Mafra - and enclosed wildlife reserve established by a former King as his hunting ground. It includes running, hiking and biking trails, a falconry centre and other activities.
SINTRA
Just 25 mins away, Sintra is a must-see, so - if you are staying at the house in high season - leave by 8am to get a parking spot or go later afternoon! It has 10 national monuments, which include ornate palaces, ancient ruins, and decorative houses. You could easily spend five days there so best to do some investigation and figure out what you most want to do / see on a day trip. We have more info at the house and there are many guided tours.
The national park that surrounds Sintra ends just outside our village and is a 5 minute drive away.
CASCAIS/ ESTORIL
Cascais is about 30 mins away on the Estoril coast, and is where the expats and Lisbon elite live. It retains its historic charm but also has a modern cosmopolitan feel, with 5* hotels, restaurants and cool boutiques.
LISBON
One of the most beautiful capital cities in Europe, IMHO. Just 30 mins by car. It is relatively easy to get tickets see Sporting Lisbon and Benfica if you enjoy football in fabulous stadia, and there are always great live concerts going on through the year. Check out www.songkick.com
You can be at the Silver Coast within an hour and also drive to both Porto, Seville and the Algarve within three hours.
GOLF
There are countless world-class courses to choose from.
BEACHES/SURFING
The closest beaches to the Villa are:
Sao Juliao 2km away (West) – signposted from the N247. Walkable in 20 mins but uphill coming back! 10 mins by bike. Plenty of parking. Good surfing. Nice beach café open all year with lovely views, pizza place right on the beach. At low tide the beach expands enormously to the South for a pleasant walk along the foot of the cliffs, but watch out for the tide coming back in! Nice walks up over the cliffs too, South into the Sintra National Park or North towards….
Foz do Lizandro – 2km away (North-West) – drive towards Ericeira and it is signposted on your left just after crossing the Lizandro river. Or walk (around 20 mins, uphill coming back). Good surfing with permanent surf school (Na Onda) offering lessons all year round. Selection of cafes / restaurants. Good breakfasts. Great sushi. Bigger and busier than Sao Juliao. The river (almost) runs out to the sea so fresh water swimming and SUP also possible – warmer, less salty but doesn’t appear as clean. Southern end of the Ericeira Beach Bus route.
Heading North… the following are all signposted off the N247, with beach bus stops at their car parks.
Sul (South, also known as Baleia (Whale) beach) – cunningly named as at the Southern end of Ericeira town. Park at the cliff-top and walk down. OK for surfing.
Pescadores (Fishermans) – closest to the old town centre. At its North end the local fishing fleet hauls up its catch and delivers to the market and restaurants in town. Best for swimming as the beach is protected from wind and waves. Not for surfing. Parking along the cliff-top or in Ericeira old-town parking areas.
Norte / Algodio – just up from Pescadores, towards the North end of the old town. OK surfing.
Sao Sebastiao – at the North end of Ericeira, named after the church which sits above it. Parking area next to the church.
Between here and the next main beach are a few surfing-only spots and smaller beaches (Matadouro, Empa, Backdoor, Pedra Branca, Reef) mainly accessible from small cliff-top car parks.
Ribeira d’Ilhas – a few km further North, between Ericeria and Ribamar, renowned as the best surfing spot and hosts world surfing championships. Also a pleasant sunbathing spot with modern café / bar set back from the beach with big chill-out deck. Northern terminus of the Ericeira beach bus. Parking at sea level behind the café, or cliff-top with a dramatic wooden staircase down to the beach.
Off the N247 through Ribamar are signs for more surfer beaches (Pontinha, Crazy Left, Coxos) – not yet visited by us, feedback welcome.
Sao Lourenco – another few km North, just past Ribamar. Follow signs from the N247 – parking down at sea level. Nice bar on the beach and great restaurant overlooking it.
Further North than this, beaches are dotted along the coast all the way to…well, Spain probably… but there are dragons and it remains unexplored territory (by us, anyway). Feedback welcome. Calada and Barril are both supposed to be nice. Continuing North beyond the Ericeira region, Peniche (about 1 hour drive) has more excellent surf beaches – world championships held here at Supertubos in 2016 - with good parking and cafes, while Nazare (1.5 hours) is famous for having the biggest waves you`ve ever seen.... when the winds and moon are in the right place.
Heading South – the N247 leaves the coast and a network of country lanes run through the Sintra National Park. This is fabulous hiking / biking country with a few villages and isolated beaches but little infrastructure. Lovely drives to Fontanela and round to Colares where Madonna now has a a house, including…
Azenhas do Mar – picturesque village perched on the cliff-side, with a nice-looking beach and great restaurants with fabulous views
Praia das Maças – at the end of the little tram line from Colares and Sintra, so quite well touristed. Large village with good choice of restaurants, beach bars and more good surf.